Decoding Hair: Types, Textures, and the Art of Cosmetology

1. The Spectrum of Directional Patterns

Hair has distinct patterns that naturally manifest, majorly falling into four categories:

Straight: Hair fibers run linearly from root to tip.
Wavy: Hair contains subtle curves and can range from slight waves to more pronounced undulations.
Curly: Spiraled hair that can take various forms, from loose, open loops to tighter ringlets.
Coily: These are the tightest forms of curls, akin to springs or very tight spirals.

2. The Ten Universal Curl Patterns

The vast range of curl patterns can be categorized into approximately ten universal types, spanning from wavy to curly and ending in coily. It is imperative for cosmetologists to distinguish between these patterns to offer personalized and effective care.

3. Beyond a One-Size-Fits-All Approach

Contrary to popular belief, the natural hair care industry isn’t monolithic. It’s not unusual for clients to showcase more than one curl pattern. Hair texture varies widely even on a single head, demanding tailored attention. For stylists, the goal revolves around accentuating the texture’s unique characteristics while preserving its integrity.

4. The André Walker Hair Typing System

André Walker pioneered the consumer-friendly hair classification with his Hair Typing System. This model organizes hair textures via a combination of numbers and letters, focused on the principal hair patterns: straight, wavy, curly, and coily. Additionally, factors like density, porosity, and elasticity are addressed. With this system gaining traction in pop culture, professionals should be adept in it to ensure effective consultations.

André Walker Hair Typing System was first introduced in the 1990’s (shown) and has since been modified to include more subtypes (Type 3c and Type 4c). For descriptions and visual examples, refer to Table

Modern times have seen variations to the Walker system, with newer classification systems emerging to include additional textures and curl patterns.

5. Delving into Hair Texture and Density

Texture:
- Fine: Hair strands that are thinner and often more fragile.
- Medium: A balance between fine and coarse textures.
- Coarse: Thicker hair strands, often robust and more resistant to damage.
Density: This pertains to the amount of hair present on the scalp. It can vary from very thin, where the scalp is easily visible, to very thick, where the hair is densely packed.

6. The Relationship: Texture, Density, and Style Selection

There exists a pivotal relationship between hair texture and density in terms of style determination. For instance, a person with thin yet coarse hair might require different styling and care compared to someone with thick, fine hair. These intricate differences dictate the product selection, cutting techniques, and styling modalities.

7. The Essential Consultation Table

A detailed table showcasing curl patterns and textures would ideally assist professionals during consultations. While the present guide does not enumerate straight hair, such tables should encompass the complete hair spectrum for comprehensive analysis.

Universal Curl Patterns and Hair Types
WAVY
Hair Pattern		Type 1: Slight Wave	Type 2: Loose Wave	Type 3: Deep Wave
Wave Formation		Soft large (S) formation	Soft medium (S) formation	Soft small (S) formation
Diameter (Texture)		Fine to coarse	Medium to coarse	Medium to coarse
Density		Average Thin to thick	Slightly above average Thin to thick	Above average Thick
Volume		Limited	Medium	High
Frizz		Little to none	Moderate to frizzy	Moderate to excessive with some tangling
Porosity		Low to average	Low to average	Average to high
Elasticity		Moderate, with easy movement	Good, with gentle movement	Great, with great movement
Reaction to Light		Reflects light, shines	Reflects light, shines	Reflects light, shines
CURLY
Hair Pattern		Type 4: Loose Curly	Type 5: Very Curly	Type 6: Tight Curls
Curl Formation		Very large to medium ringlets, spirals, or loops (C) formation	Medium ringlets, spirals, or corkscrews (C) formation	Small ringlets, spirals, and tight corkscrews (C) formation
Diameter (Texture)		Fine to coarse	Fine to coarse	Fine to coarse
Density		Average Medium	Above average Medium to thick	Above average Thick
Volume		Moderate	High	High, with some shrinkage
Frizz		Moderate	Moderate to excessive with tangles	Excessive with tangles and knots at ends
Porosity		Low to average	Average to high	Average to high
Elasticity		Good, with good movement	High, with great movement	Very high, with great movement
Reaction to Light		Reflects light, shines	Reflects a little light and a little shine	Reflects light when wet, needs natural oils for shine
COILY
Hair Pattern	Type 7: Loose Coils	Type 8: Very Coily	Type 9: Tightly Coiled	Typ e 10: Highly Textured / Afro
Coil Formation	Medium to small spiral-shaped curls, small ringlets	Small spiralshaped curls, very small ringlets or corkscrews	Very small tight curls or coils, and tight zigzag patterns	Medium to very loose zigzag patterns; can be straight
Coil Formation	Loose curl formation	Tight curl formation	Very tight curl formation	Zigzag formation
Diameter (Texture)	Fine to coarse	Fine to coarse	Fine to coarse	Fine to coarse; feels coarse or rough to the touch
Density	High Thin to medium	Varies Thin to thick	Very high Medium to thick	Varies Thin to thick
Volume	Medium to high, with some shrinkage	Varies, with lots of shrinkage	Varies, lots of shrinkage	Varies, little shrinkage, can be straight
Frizz	High, tangles at ends	High, tangles and knots at ends	High, tangles and knots at ends and hair shaft	Very high; hair shaft can knot
Porosity	Average to high	Average to high	Low to high	Low
Elasticity	Good to moderate; fragile with some movement	Good to moderate; fragile, breaks easily with little movement	Moderate to poor; very fragile, tangles and breaks easily with no movement	Good to moderate but can tend to be poor; extremely fragile, tangles easily with some movement
Reaction to Light	Reflects light when wet	No light reflection	No light reflection	No light reflection

Styling Options for Hair Patterns and Textures
Hair Pattern аnd Texture	Qualities
Straight Fine	• Hugs the head shape, lacks body or volume, has marginal elasticity • Silhouette is small and narrow • May not support many styling options if left natural; recommend styling aids or chemical services to achieve the most flattering style
Straight Medium	• Offers more styling versatility • Responds well to blowdrying with various brush sizes • Has a good amount of movement • Responds well to rollers and thermal styling
Straight Coarse	• Hard to curl, carries more volume • Casts a slightly wider silhouette than straight fine or straight medium • Brushing and thermal flat styling may increase unwanted volume • Typically moisture resistant with a more compact cuticle; therefore, chemical services may take longer to process
Wavy Fine	• Can appear fuller when diffused with heat and appropriately cut and styled • Cuticle is raised; may be fragile and prone to frizz • Can look fuller with layering • Responds well to blowdrying and chemical services for smoothing and straightening
Wavy Medium	• Offers the most styling versatility • Has the most pattern uniformity • Responds well to heat and is easily diffused when dried from its natural state to look curly • Can be easily straightened by blowdrying
Wavy Coarse	• Silhouette can be very voluminous if not shaped properly • Blowdrying can be effective, but is often easier for the stylist than for the client • May be too wavy when straight and not curly enough for a curly style • Achieve a wash-and-wear curly style with a soft perm • Smooth or straighten with a chemical relaxer or keratin-based chemical treatment • Remove some weight from the interior with texture shears
Curly Fine	• When worn long, often separates, revealing the client’s scalp unless the hair is very dense • Responds well to mild relaxers, keratin-based chemical treatments for smoothing / straightening, and color services • Tangles easily; use a thermal protecting detangle product before blowdrying
Curly Medium	• Silhouette with volume • When left natural, gives a soft, romantic look • Silhouette should be proportional to the client’s body shape and not overwhelm it • When shaping, keep in mind where the haircut’s weight line will fall • Responds well to relaxers, keratin-based chemical treatment, and color
Curly Coarse	• Mix of coiled to extremely coiled hair strands • Usually very compact and offers little to no movement • Prone to tangles and dryness • Use products containing moisture • Cut dry; the hair will shrink considerably once dried, making it appear much shorter
Very Curly Fine	• Generally best cut short • If long, the silhouette will be horizontally full and voluminous • Responds well to chemical services and chemical smoothing services • Responds well to blowdryer and thermal flat iron • Always apply a product with heat-protectant properties when using any thermal appliance or tool
Very Curly Medium	• Silhouette can promote horizontal volume lines, as it tends to widen as it grows longer • Responds well to chemical relaxers and chemical smoothers to narrow the shape • Responds well to pressing and thermal straighteners, as well as braids and twists • In its natural state, close cropping in a flattering shape is great for styling ease and low maintenance
Coily / Afro-texture	• Silhouette will be wide • Chemical relaxing makes it more manageable and offers additional styling options • Often appears quite dense • In natural state without chemicals, responds well to short, cropped layers along with braided, loc, or twisted styles

Conclusion

Hair, in all its glory, represents a myriad of types and textures. As cosmetologists, appreciating this diversity is the foundation for exceptional hair care. By understanding and implementing knowledge on hair types, patterns, textures, and density, professionals can craft masterpieces that don’t just sit on a client’s head but resonate with their unique identity.

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